Frequently Asked Questions
About Our Company
We are licensed by the state of Minnesota. This is important for the following reasons: licensed roofing contractors must pass examinations based on specifications, standards, and practices supported by roofing industry professionals, and they must meet mandated qualifications in verifiable work experience, education, and moral character. Licensure also helps protect you from “storm-chasers,” those out-of-town scammers looking to make quick money off you — someone they plan on never seeing again!
We are a professional, fully insured and bonded company and we’re happy to provide you with copies of our liability and workers’ compensation certificates. This is vital to you as the homeowner because it protects you in the event a worker gets injured on your property.
We understand that people are busy and that it can be difficult to take time away from work, family, and other commitments. While we are able to give you estimates without visiting the property, we often prefer to physically inspect the home’s exterior (especially in cases of storm damage). This allows us to provide you with the most accurate assessment of its condition, which enables us to give you the most accurate appraisal and recommendations.
Storm Damage & Insurance
Before anything gets moved, cleaned up, or repaired, photograph everything — the roof, gutters, siding, windows, and your yard. That documentation is the foundation of your insurance claim. Next, call your insurance company to open a claim and get a claim number. Then call a licensed Minnesota roofing contractor for an inspection before the insurance adjuster arrives. An experienced contractor can identify damage an adjuster might miss and make sure your claim reflects the full scope. Don't let anyone pressure you into signing anything on the spot. Call (952) 260-0305 for a free post-storm inspection — we'll get you on the schedule before the adjustment window closes.
Most standard HO-3 homeowner policies in Minnesota cover sudden storm damage — hail, wind, and related water intrusion. What your policy pays out depends on whether you have Actual Cash Value (ACV) or Replacement Cost Value (RCV) coverage. ACV pays the depreciated value of your old roof. RCV pays the full cost to replace it with a similar material. Most Minnesota homeowners carry RCV coverage, but confirm with your agent before a storm hits. If you're not sure which type you have, ask us during your free inspection — we work insurance claims daily and can walk you through what to expect. See our storm damage page for the full claims overview.
ACV (Actual Cash Value) means your insurer pays what your roof was worth at the time of the storm, factoring in its age and depreciation. If your 15-year-old roof is worth 40% of its replacement value, that's all you receive upfront. RCV (Replacement Cost Value) pays the full replacement cost, but it comes in two checks. The first covers the ACV amount. The second — called the holdback or recoverable depreciation — is released after the work is completed and you submit the final invoice to your insurer. Make sure you understand which coverage you have before accepting any settlement, and never waive the recoverable depreciation without reading the full terms.
Minnesota has a two-year statute of limitations on storm damage insurance claims, measured from the date of the storm. That sounds like plenty of time, but don't wait. Damage worsens with every freeze-thaw cycle, and some insurers require prompt notice as a condition of coverage. More practically, the longer you wait, the harder it becomes to prove the damage was storm-related rather than general wear and tear. If you had a storm hit your home within the last two years and haven't had a professional inspection, schedule one now. Call (952) 260-0305 — a free inspection costs you nothing, and knowing where you stand is worth a lot.
Yes — and you should have a licensed roofing contractor there with you. Insurance adjusters handle hundreds of claims and move fast. They frequently miss damage to gutters, siding, soft metals like flashing and vent caps, and AC condenser fins. A contractor who regularly works insurance claims knows what to point out and can advocate for a more accurate scope of loss. If your adjuster visits without a contractor present and the initial settlement seems low, you can request a re-inspection. We attend adjuster meetings at no charge for our clients — it's a standard part of how we work insurance claims.
A good insurance claim contractor does more than show up. We walk the roof with the adjuster, document every impact point and area of damage, provide a written scope of work, and flag items that are commonly missed — dented gutters, cracked vent covers, damaged flashing, soft metals around skylights and chimneys, and storm damage siding. If the adjuster's initial scope leaves things out, we file a supplement with the insurance company to get those items covered. Supplementing is standard practice when legitimate damage is missed on the initial inspection. It's not about inflating a claim — it's about making sure nothing falls through the cracks.
A supplement is an additional coverage request filed with your insurer when legitimate damage or costs are discovered after the initial claim settles. This happens regularly on storm damage projects — hidden deck damage, deteriorated flashing, code-required upgrades, or materials that increased in price between your settlement date and project start. Supplements are legal, common, and appropriate when the scope supports them. We handle the documentation and communication with your insurer directly. Most homeowners who work with an experienced insurance claim contractor end up with a higher final settlement than the adjuster's initial offer — not through padding, but through complete and accurate documentation.
A denial isn't necessarily the end of the road. Your first option is to request a re-inspection with a licensed contractor present who can walk the adjuster through the documented damage. If that doesn't resolve it, you can hire a public adjuster — an independent professional who negotiates with insurance companies on your behalf, typically for a percentage of the final settlement. You can also invoke the appraisal clause written into most homeowner policies, which brings in a neutral umpire to resolve the dispute. We're not public adjusters, but we can help you document damage thoroughly and support a re-inspection request. We've helped homeowners successfully reverse denials.
No. Under Minnesota law, you have the right to choose your own licensed contractor. An insurer can recommend preferred contractors, but they cannot require you to use them or penalize you for choosing someone else. Watch for "steering" — when an insurance representative pushes you toward a specific contractor or implies your claim will process faster with their preferred vendor. That's not how it works. Choose a contractor based on their license status, local track record, and your comfort with them — not because your insurer told you to. Your insurer pays for the work. You decide who does it.
Storm chasers flood Minnesota neighborhoods after major hail events. Watch for these red flags: no Minnesota contractor's license (verifiable at the state licensing board), no local phone number or physical address, an offer to waive your insurance deductible (that is insurance fraud in Minnesota), high pressure to sign a contract on the spot, a request to sign over your insurance rights through an Assignment of Benefits (AOB), and no verifiable local reviews or business history. Legitimate contractors have been working the same market for years, carry proper licensing and insurance, and will never pressure you to sign before you're ready. We've been serving the Twin Cities metro for years — call (952) 260-0305 and ask us anything.
Ice Dams
An ice dam forms when heat escaping from your living space warms the roof deck, melting snow near the ridge. That meltwater runs down toward the cold eave — the overhang above your soffits — and refreezes into a wall of ice. As the dam builds up, water backs behind it with nowhere to drain. Eventually it works its way under the shingles and into the structure, causing interior leaks, soaked insulation, damaged drywall, rotted roof decking, and mold if left unaddressed. The root cause is almost always inadequate attic insulation or ventilation. The ice itself is a symptom. Fixing the ice without fixing the attic means you'll deal with the same problem every winter.
Two safe DIY options: calcium chloride ice melt placed inside nylon tube stockings, laid perpendicular across the dam to create a drainage channel (never rock salt — it corrodes metal and kills plants), and a roof rake with a plastic or foam blade used from the ground to clear snow from the lower few feet of the roof. What you should never do: chop at the ice with an axe, use a pressure washer, or apply a torch. Those approaches crack shingles, break flashing seals, and void manufacturer warranties. The most effective professional method is low-pressure steam removal — it melts ice without damaging shingles. Professional ice dam removal in Minnesota typically runs $400 – $1,500 depending on severity and linear footage.
Water damage caused by an ice dam — the interior ceiling, insulation, and structural damage from water intrusion — is typically covered under the dwelling portion of a standard HO-3 homeowner policy. The cost of removing the ice dam itself is a different story; some policies include limited coverage for it, many don't. The distinction matters: the resulting water damage is likely covered, but the ice removal cost may come out of pocket. Before starting any cleanup or repairs, document everything with photos — your insurer will want evidence of both the dam and the resulting interior damage. When in doubt, call your agent before you begin repairs.
Professional ice dam removal in Minnesota runs $400 – $1,500 for most residential jobs, depending on how severe the dam is, how many linear feet of eave are affected, and roof access difficulty. Steam removal — the industry standard — uses hot low-pressure steam to melt ice without damaging shingles or cracking flashing. The higher cost over DIY chipping is worth it: manual chipping regularly cracks shingles, breaks seals, and voids manufacturer warranties. If you have recurring ice dams every winter, the smarter long-term investment is addressing the root cause. Attic air sealing and insulation upgrades can stop ice dams from forming in the first place and reduce your heating bills at the same time. Call (952) 260-0305 for a free assessment.
Ice dams are an insulation and ventilation problem, not a roofing problem. The lasting fix has three parts: seal air leaks in the attic floor (the biggest single factor — warm air escaping from living spaces heats the deck), add attic insulation to keep heat from conducting up through the structure, and ensure adequate attic ventilation so cold outside air can flush through and keep the deck temperature consistent. Together, these stop the melt-and-refreeze cycle that creates the dam. Short-term fix: a roof rake used after heavy snowfall to clear the lower 3–4 feet of roof reduces the volume of snow available to melt and refreeze. Long-term, attic improvements are the only way to actually solve the problem.
Roofing — General
Every municipality has specific requirements regarding permits. Our professionals are able to take care of obtaining permits when necessary.
One day is the standard for a typical residential roof. Keep in mind that there are many factors that influence a timeline for completion: roof size, amount of work needed, and issues that may arise during installation, and of course — the weather.
While that is certainly true of some, we pride ourselves on treating your home as if it were our own! Our crews protect the house and landscaping with tarps and plywood, where necessary.
We ensure our job site remains clean with the use of our exclusive revolutionary catch-all system.To minimize dust and debris, you can help us by doing the following:
- Remove and/or cover items stored in the attic (sometimes dust falls between gaps in the plywood or planks)
- Consider temporarily removing breakables from walls and ceilings (due to vibrations during the construction process)
- Move outside breakables at least 20 feet away from the house (vehicles, lawn furniture, ornaments, planters, etc.)
- Make sure the grass is mowed and leaves are raked (we make every effort to collect all nails and even the smallest scraps, but it helps when they don’t have a tall lawn to work their way down into)
From the time our installers arrive, they have a ground crew that is constantly removing debris and maintaining the landscape. Upon completion, roller magnets are used to pick up any stray nails.
For your convenience, we accept cash, check, and credit cards.
Even if only a section of a roof is showing wear, it can be more cost-effective in the long-run to consider an entire replacement rather than a partial repair. While replacing only sections of tile or shingles can be a good short-term solution to your problems, it’s best for the structural integrity of the roof to have consistency in the age and quality of your roofing materials.
The general life expectancy of a roof varies, as with any home improvement project, but most high-quality roofing shingles can be expected to last for about 20 years before failing or otherwise needing to be replaced. Areas with high wind speeds, heavy rainfall, and extreme temperatures can expect that lifespan to be shorter. Having spare shingles on-hand in the event of strong winds is a good idea and will provide you with a good opportunity to get up on your roof and assess its overall quality on a regular basis.
While most roofs have a warranty, this doesn’t mean that your roof will necessarily go this long without needing to be replaced. Some will wear out faster due to severe weather and environmental conditions, while others may last longer. Most roofs, however, are designed to last between 15 and 25 years; some types of slate and metal roofs can last longer.
A leaking roof is a bad thing. However, it doesn’t necessarily warrant a complete roof replacement. How much repair and work needs to be done on your roof depends on the level of damage caused by leaking. Talking to a professional here at Exteriors Plus is the best way to know whether only minor repair or a full roof replacement is necessary.
There are many problems that can lead to roof leaking, which is why it’s important to inspect your roof periodically and check for common warning signs. You can perform this inspection yourself, but it is a good idea to hire a professional at least once a year to check for any serious roof problems.
It depends — if you are someone who is generally successful with DIY home improvement projects, then you may have the ability to take on a project of this magnitude and importance (for your home’s health).
However, if you are someone who is generally not successful with DIY home improvement projects, then you should definitely consider looking into professional roofing services.
Your roof is vital to the health of your home’s structure and internal condition. To botch repairs or wing a full replacement can lead to serious damages. Even more, you will end up spending both the time and money in performing the DIY roof project and then spend more time and money later on when you need to hire a professional to do it right.
Costs vary greatly depending on the pitch of your roof, the type of shingles you have, what condition the roof is in, and how many layers of shingles you have. The best way to find out the cost is to have a free quote done. Contact Exteriors Plus for your exterior home remodel quote today!
There are a lot of factors that go into whether or not hail is damaging to a roof. The age and condition of the roof can greatly impact how large a hail pellet needs to be to cause significant damage. In general, however, pea- and marble-sized hailstones do not typically cause damage to a roof without high winds also being involved.
No, hail storms can vary tremendously even in a small area. The roofs can all vary in terms of age and condition as well, which will impact how they are affected.
Leaks can be tough to spot because water wants to find the path of least resistance and can travel for a while before finally showing up through your ceiling. You can try going into your attic or crawl space with a flashlight the next time it rains and try to trace it, but your most accurate answer will come from having our restoration specialists come out to find it and give you a quote.
The shingles may not have been properly installed, they could have been placed over an existing layer of shingles that is not giving adequate coverage, or there could be new damage due to a recent storm. The best way to find out is to have an inspection and estimate done.
The answer depends on several factors, such as what is causing the leak, and the overall age and condition of the roof. If the leak is caused by a few minor issues with the shingles or flashing, this can be repaired easily in a few hours. However, if the roof is old and subject to widespread problems, it may need to be replaced, which could take a few days.
While it is technically possible to layer one set of shingles on top of another, this may be setting you up for future problems. If your current shingles are curling, cracked, missing, or are covered with moss or algae, you will need to strip them to install the new roof. Likewise, if you already have two layers on your roof, they will have to come off to install the new shingles.
Every roof is different, and what the roofers find when they get up there will affect how long repairs will take. It can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days, depending on the size and the scope of the job.
A roofing underlayment is also known as felt paper, and is installed beneath your shingles, over the wood of your roof. It helps protect your roof from wind-driven rain that can get beneath your shingles and potentially damage your home.
If the wood beneath your shingles shows signs of water damage, it will need to be replaced as well.
The roof that you choose should complement the style and features of your home. You should also take into consideration the material, how long it lasts, and the costs to make this personal decision.
The roof color you select should complement the rest of your home. This should be a secondary consideration to what type of material you choose for your roof. Be sure to get a color guide or brochure for the type of shingle you select to see what is available.
Siding
Siding damage from hail and wind is often invisible from the ground — which is why most homeowners miss it until a contractor gets up close. On vinyl siding, look for cracks, chips, or splits, particularly on corners and mid-panel. On aluminum, hail leaves distinct round dents. On LP SmartSide or wood siding, check for gouges and areas where the surface finish has been broken, which allows moisture in. Wind damage often shows as cracked or missing panels, especially on corners and upper stories. Damaged siding sections can allow water behind the wall, leading to rot, mold, and insulation damage. After any significant storm, a close walk-around inspection is worth doing — or call us for a free storm damage assessment.
Yes — wind and hail are covered perils under most Minnesota homeowner policies. One important thing to know specific to Minnesota: the state has a siding matching law that requires insurers to replace siding sections that can't be matched for color or profile, even if those sections weren't directly damaged. This matters because siding styles and colors get discontinued. If your insurer approves partial replacement but the existing siding can't be matched, that law may entitle you to a full-home replacement to maintain visual consistency. An experienced insurance claim contractor can identify when the matching law applies and document it properly. We handle siding insurance claims regularly — see our siding page for more.
Full-home siding replacement in Minnesota typically runs $7,000 – $18,000 for a standard single-family home, depending on material, square footage, and the condition of the sheathing underneath. Material comparison: vinyl is the most affordable option ($7,000 – $12,000 installed) but can become brittle in extreme Minnesota cold. Fiber cement (James Hardie) is more durable, holds paint longer, and typically runs $10,000 – $16,000 installed. LP SmartSide engineered wood offers excellent impact and moisture resistance in a similar price range to fiber cement. For insurance-covered jobs, your out-of-pocket cost is often limited to your deductible — typically $1,000 – $2,500. Get your free estimate at exteriorsplusmn.com.
Most full-home siding replacements take 3–7 business days from first tear-off to final trim, depending on home size, crew, and weather. Larger two-story homes or those with complex trim details take longer. You don't need to leave during the project — the crew works entirely from the exterior. We clean up debris at the end of each workday. If rotted sheathing or structural issues are found during tear-off, we document and communicate what we found before proceeding with any additional repairs. No surprises.
For Minnesota's climate, LP SmartSide engineered wood and fiber cement (James Hardie) are the strongest long-term performers. Both handle freeze-thaw cycles without the brittleness that can affect standard vinyl at temperatures below -20°F, when vinyl becomes susceptible to cracking on impact. Fiber cement resists moisture exceptionally well and holds painted finishes longer than most materials. LP SmartSide has strong impact resistance and carries warranties well-suited to Minnesota conditions. Vinyl is still the most budget-friendly option and performs fine in most Minnesota winters — it's worth reconsidering only if you're in a zone prone to large hail. Budget, long-term goals, and insurance coverage all factor into the right call.
Partial section replacement works — if the siding product you have is still in production and your color is still available. If the product has been discontinued or the color run has ended, matching becomes a real problem, and mismatched patches stand out and can reduce curb appeal and home value. This is where Minnesota's siding matching law matters: if storm damage is covered by your insurer and the existing siding can't be matched, the law may require them to fund a full-home replacement for visual consistency. We assess every situation individually — sometimes a targeted repair is the right call, and sometimes a full replacement is the better outcome for the homeowner.
Windows
Window damage from a storm isn't always obvious at a glance. Cracked or shattered glass is easy to spot. Broken seals are trickier — they show up as fogging or condensation between the glass panes, a sign that the argon gas fill has escaped and the window's insulating value is gone. Damaged frames, cracked glazing putty, and dented or torn screens are also common indicators. Screens are often the best first clue after a hail event — if your screens have uniform dents or tears across them, your windows likely took hits too. Get a professional assessment and written documentation before filing a claim. See our windows page for more.
Broken glass from hail impact is typically covered under a standard homeowner policy. Seal failure caused by age, normal wear, or thermal expansion is not — that's a maintenance issue, not storm damage. The distinction matters because many older homes have pre-existing failed seals, and after a storm it's tempting to attribute all fogged windows to hail. An honest inspection identifies which failed seals show contemporaneous impact damage and which were pre-existing. Most experienced adjusters recognize the difference. If you have legitimate hail damage to windows, document it with photos and get a contractor's written assessment before the adjuster visits. See our windows page for details.
Window replacement in Minnesota runs $400 – $1,200 per window installed, depending on size, style (double-hung, casement, picture, bay), glass package, and frame material. A full-home replacement on a typical 2,000 sq ft home with 15–20 windows runs $8,000 – $25,000+. For storm-covered claims with RCV coverage, your out-of-pocket cost is typically limited to your deductible. Energy-efficient upgrades — triple-pane glass, low-E coating, argon gas fill — cost more upfront but reduce heating bills meaningfully in Minnesota winters. The payback period in this climate is often shorter than homeowners expect. Get your free estimate at exteriorsplusmn.com.
For Minnesota winters, triple-pane windows with low-E coating and argon or krypton gas fill are the top performers. The key metric to look at is U-factor — the lower the number, the better the window insulates. This is different from R-value, which measures wall and ceiling insulation; windows use U-factor. A quality triple-pane window typically rates U-0.15 to U-0.25, compared to U-0.30 to U-0.40 for standard double-pane. Low-E coating reflects interior heat back into the room in winter and blocks radiant solar heat in summer. The upfront premium over double-pane is real, but in a Minnesota climate with heating seasons that run 5–6 months, the payback in reduced energy costs typically comes within 5–10 years.
Financing & Service Area
Yes — we work with financing partners to help make roof replacements, siding projects, and window replacements more manageable. Financing terms and options vary, so the best way to see what's available for your project is to bring it up during your free estimate. We'll walk you through financing options alongside your insurance settlement details so you have a complete picture of your out-of-pocket cost before any work starts. For most insurance claims, your deductible is the only amount you pay directly. For projects that fall outside of insurance coverage, financing can make a significant difference.
We serve the Twin Cities metro and surrounding communities including Savage, Shakopee, Burnsville, Lakeville, Eden Prairie, Prior Lake, Bloomington, Minneapolis, Edina, Blaine, Apple Valley, and the broader Twin Cities south metro. If you're not sure whether we cover your zip code, call (952) 260-0305 or visit exteriorsplusmn.com and we'll confirm right away. If you had recent storm damage, fast scheduling matters — insurance claims have inspection windows and damage worsens with time. We prioritize prompt response for storm damage assessments throughout our service area.